Sunday, April 30, 2006

Bruselas

Avda. Bruselas, 53 (91-726-4535)

Not for the average tourist visiting Madrid, being a bit in the outskirts. More concretely, this is a typical 60s cafeteria installed in the typical (if rather wealthy) 60s-built quarter far off the centre of the town. Maybe foreigners installed in the NH Avenidas hotel, placed in the same quarter (Parque de las Avenidas) and supposedly attractive for those very interested either in attending bullfights (la plaza de las Ventas is quite near) or in experiencing suburban life in Madrid, would have a chance to go.

Still, it is not at all usual to find foreigners here. This is a family restaurant if there ever was any, with plenty of families among the customer base and plenty of family food in the menu. And with a lovely terraza that makes it an ideal sitio for coming in the summer (spring is even better if the day is sunny -not so hot as summer).

I particularly love the gambas con gabardina, a sixties/seventies-style ración that reminds me of those teenage summers I spent in El Escorial (full of people from the Parque de las Avenidas in that season), summers in which I (kind of simultaneously) discovered these wonderful gambas (something like shrimp tempura, but definitely less delicate and, if they are good and you are a 30/40-something madrileño, even more delightful), real patatas bravas (real means that they are not bathed in industrial tomato sauce or -worse still- ketchup, but in an orange pimenton sauce instead) and minis de cerveza.

But there are other nice things, among which we usually take the delicias de merluza a la romana, a very traditional dish that is a landmark here (maybe a bit expensive, but never disappointing). Meat is also good (I have sometimes taken the entrecot de buey) and so are some of the entrants (morcilla de burgos, several salads, verduras a la parrilla, habitas con jamón).

If you, like me, are within the baby carrito crowd, this place is only an option if you plan to go to the terraza (main indoors comedor is in the basement and you need to negotiate a rather narrow staircase). And it is ideal for lunch. Otherwise, if you are a double income no kids couple, this could be an interesting garito to go have dinner in the summer before visiting some of the very nice bares de copas in the Parque, where you can listen to wonderful new wave music... I'm referring to the Rowland, the Any Trouble (I don't know if it is still open) or the much bigger Barracudas.

Oh, and I would hate to forget telling you that the service is serious and professional, quite in the old 60s school. As we 30/40-something madrileños usually love (after all, we are so sentimental)

Friday, April 14, 2006

Maruzzella

c. Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 28 (91-534-7732)

A rather obscure place, both because the place where it is (one would never expect such a restaurant in such a building) and because there is not much natural light. Not so much different from the Paper Moon in both aspects (even if in the PM the natural light aspect depends on the table you get)

Moreover some friends of mine had recommended it as an alternative to the PM, so I guessed that we were on track to another girl-oriented place, with lots of tias buenas and healthy salads. But it is not that way

Food is good. A purist could say that even better than the PM's, from the authentic Italian point of view. But I must say that, for me, the slightly un-Italian character of the PM is one of its main attractives. My partner and me (but specially she) started our lunch the other day by devouring a rather tasty caprese salad (tomato and mozzarella) and a rather vulgar (then again, which isn't in these days that are running) grilled vegetables plate. Then I ordered tagliatelle with scampi, in one of these ultra-cutre moments in which one wants to test the same things that Fernando Point from El Mundo said were remarkable, but just to discover that the cigalas came with all their (dirty) caparazones, so it was a very coñazo plate to eat. My partner enjoyed her carpaccio, according to what she has been saying ever after. For dessert I don't follow the conventional wisdom, that seems to be tiramisu (according to the long silence that follows the waiter's suggestion...) I order pannacotta and this is not bad, but it is not at the same level as the one from PM.

Maruzzella is also not the same thing as the PM in terms of tb's, of course. Even if it is true that the apparent Maitre d' is a rather exuberant woman of peroxidish hair and exotic (Italian?) accent. And that in a table close to ours, two gran hermano fashion victims wanna-be's with extremely adjusted jeans and tatoos on their shoulders were visiting someone called Giorgio from the kitchen. And they ordered coca-cola with red wine to make it even more trendy.

The final impression is that the place is quite alright, although I still prefer PM for the not-so-orthodox Italian material, and the Casa Marco (Gaztambide / Argüelles) for the orthodox one. But in any case this is definitely an option

Sunday, April 02, 2006

Paper Moon

c. Concha Espina, 55 (91-564-9940)

One of our favourites, but one that my partner and I use to visit much less frequently than some time ago, because -you guess- of the parental duties... There were times when we went every tuesday, and we never seemed to get tired of it

If one had to describe it in a simple way, it is the kind of place that women usually love. They have great, albeit modern salads and italian food -pasta, pizzas and so on. They also have many couples dining around, some of them kind of extracurricular, if you know what I mean. And many tables full of girls, a feature that I must admit can be attractive for the middle aged married man (some visual exercise to go with your tagliatelle may sometimes be a rather good idea). The atmosphere reminds that of these typical modern italian restaurants in London's Soho, or something like this.

The place is small, but not at all unconfortable, and the service is great, frequently led by our friend Nacho who used to have a long tail and now wears a bold head and a rather strange chinese tattoo in his neck.

From the menu, I would recommend the spinach salad (with bacon, mushrooms and cheese), the rucula salad (with cheese and baby tomatoes), the tagliatelle con verduras a la soja, the integral spaghetti, and some of the definitely unhealthy desserts, such as the tarta de mousse de chocolate (impressive cholesterol tsunami, but wonderful), the pannacotta and the tarta de manzana con helado de vainilla.